Rit DyeMore - Tinte líquido, grafito, 7 onzas

It worked fine for dying my cotton and polyester wool blend sweatshirt. If you follow the directions it seems to work very well. I think I could have died a couple of more things in the same water and had good results.I have not washed this item since I dyed it, but I noticed that the charcoal gray color is fading after a few months. At this rate I think it will take two or three years for it to wear out enough that I would want to re-dye it.

I purchased these as a set of 3 items. I received: 1 Pack of Rit DyeMore 7 Oz. Synthetic Liquid Fiber Dye - Graphite; Pack of 1 Rit Dye, 8 Fl Oz of #88150 All Purpose Liquid Dye - Black; Rit Dye RIT COLORSTAY, 8 fl oz, ClearI followed instruction for the pairs of pants that were made with synthetic fibers. I boiled on the stove as instructed. Mixing the DyeMore Graphite into the water and added clothes.When I was finished with the stove, I dumped the whole of the hot water into the washer and started to combine in my natural fiber pants and added the other bottle of Rit All Purpose.After the first rinse I filled the machine with hot water and added the Rit ColorStay. It really brightened and refreshed my black denim jeans.

I’m one of those people who tend to wear their clothing in Grayscale (my waredrobe was entirely Black at one point it) and since I wanted to change the color of a Navy Blue dress, I figured, I should also try to darken the tone of some pieces since they tended to read more like light Gray to White.First of all, let me point out that I understood the concept that true Black can NEVER be achieved with at-home dye. For whatever reason, home dyes are not intense enough (maybe true Black dye is dangerously toxic for the casual user) and the temperature that needs to be achieved cannot be executed by home stoves. With that being said, I always use Black dye with the intention of either making originally Black clothes darker (due to dye loss from repeated washing) or making White/light Gray …

I just successfully used this "graphite" color to darken a formerly bright-yellow sunglasses frame.Dyed three of them, actually - they all turned out a nice root-beer brown after 15 minutes.I think if I had stopped after 3, 5, 7 minutes they might have been olive green in tone, but I pushed thru to brown.Details:The frames were "acetate" according to manufacturer.I used a cooking thermometer. Kept temperature between 130-140 degrees in a Pyrex loaf pan, set in a pot of water on stovetop on low, to avoid hot spots. I used filtered water, stirred constantly. (In this case, "stirred" meant "jiggled and swooshed them around a bit so they wouldn't stick to anything.") Dye ratio: 1/4 bottle dye to a bit over a 1 quart of water, and just a drop of dish detergent. Rinsed in warm water afterward …

I have been trying to re-color my fading 20 year old 100% Nylon Goretex jacket I love, sadly you can't buy this type jacket any longer with same quality and function.I tried the regular Rit dye at 180°- 190° it did not take at all. So I practiced on other nylon items ( I have tested many color/combos previously with USGI colors) and through watching and learning about other dyes I ended up on Rit Dyemore and the "just below boiling" recommended. I was worried the 200°+ would damage the garment. I have successfully dyed other items with nylon and cotton but this 100% nylon was different. The only thing I screwed up was the color mix to get an emerald green color. I was so caught up on getting it done since it was taking me longer than I had time for, from getting water to temp and the …

Used this as an experiment to dye old tactical gear mostly 500D and 1000D cordura, and inherently plastics and Velcro associated with that kind of gear. Water+tiny bit of dish soap or detergent and boil keep things moving don’t let anything settle or bunch up allow the dye to roam freely through the fabrics etc I let it boil for longer than instructions call for however they seems to take color in only a few minutes. Overkill, maybe. Did no harm. Even the plastic on the buckles tool color and not the kind you can nick off with your nail I mean on a molecular level. Very impressive. After I removed all my stuff fishing around for it in the pitch black water I let it sit as I did the post dye washing process ( tongs are much recommended for this entire project by the way ) I decided I would

So I’ve used black/charcoal dye before and I’ve always had this problem where it comes out looking a little blue no matter what I do. I decided to test this one on swatches of the fabric I intend to dye. The fabric is 100% polyester and this dye is specified for use on polyester fabric. The far right is the original color of the fabric, the far left is after dying for the full 30mins. I was disappointed that it came out with a blue tint to it, which I was trying to avoid, but decided to throw a small swatch into the dye just to try for a different amount of time. The middle swatch is closest to the color I was hoping for and that is after 1 minute in the dye. This is a good dye, and I’ve used this brand before and never have an issue with it bleeding after the first wash. The color always

Used to dye 100% polyester curtains that were originally a cream color. First ordered 1 bottle of the gray and followed directions, boiling away for over an hour. Result was dismal and they almost looked blue. Decided perhaps I should try th black (called graphite) and up the ante with two bottles since th curtains were ruined anyway.The result is ok (though it should be noted that my deep sink is now darker black stained than the curtains!) Going darker and more concentrated seemed to be the trick, though the results came out unevenly. Thankfully of the 4 curtains in 3 sides of the room, only 2 are beside each other, so I was able to pair the two closest right beside each other. Also, the unevenness in color can probably be sort of hidden when shades are up and bunched (and at night wh …